Exploring Culion Island: The Former Leper Island of Palawan

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

A small island tucked somewhere around the crystal clear water of Palawan is a historical destination in the Philippines. Culion Island is one of the intrinsically rich locations that’s worth a visit. It used to be a place people would rather avoid because it was once a leprosarium where the lepers were treated back in the olden days. But all that has changed now because those patients were already healed and the World Health Organization declared the island officially leprosy-free in 2006—one century later.  Let the local’s beautiful stories inspire you when you visit Culion Island.

Also read: 12 Things to Do in Coron, Palawan on Your Very First Getaway

After spending a few days in Coron Island, we headed towards Culion Island where we were lucky to meet relatives and survivors of leprosy during our stay at the quaint, sleepy town. It’s one boat ride away from the port of Coron. We stayed at Hotel Maya for a couple of days. It’s located on a hill with a view of the serene ocean surrounding the island. It’s the best hotel you can find in the island. There are others that are cheaper and simpler but this was the one recommended by our friend who has been there before.

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

It’s cheap, simple, and clean with friendly staff. Don’t expect high end hotels here. One of the things I love about Culion is that staying there means being disconnected with gadgets and internet. There’s no internet connection and TV so you’ll really spend more quality time with your loved ones while travelling. The room we got has a great ocean view. It has a fan and aircon but no hot shower. Electricity is also limited but that’s fine as you’ll be outside most of the time exploring.

Food is served mostly at Hotel Maya but there are a few eateries around the island. The food is actually great though there are no posh restaurants or fast foods. It’s refreshing as their dishes are cheap and delicious. So for breakfast and dinner, I recommend dining at the hotel, then for lunch and snacks, try the eateries, and other food stalls around town.

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

Discover the history of Culion Island through a walking tour or hire a local tour guide. We did the latter which was also recommended by our friend from Puerto Princesa. First stop is the eagle marker and a Jesus Christ statue on top of the hill as if protecting the town, which is seen from the boat ride upon arrival at the island. There’s also a marker you shouldn’t miss along the shore line of the island behind the hotel, which signifies where the first patients arrived onboard their boats.

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

Next stop is the Culion Museum which is a few blocks away from the hotel. We met our museum guide whose father was a leper. What’s the story behind this island becoming a leprosarium and what exactly is leprosy? Locally called Ketong, it’s a disease that’s a bacterial infection associated with discoloured skin patches, clawed fingers, damaged nerves, etc. Back in 1906, the first patients came from Cebu and were brought to the island which became a treatment centre. From then on, about 5,303 lepers were brought here coming from different parts of the Philippines and even from foreign countries.

Also read: The Tabon Caves: An Enchanting Treasure of Palawan Everyone Must Discover

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

They built a leprosarium led at first by Dr. Charles de May with the help of four nuns from the Order of Saint Paul Chartres, a Jesuit priest, and other employees. The medical team grew as the need arises to the point that it became the best facility for the disease around the world. During those days, the town was divided into two wherein the half of the island was occupied by lepers while the other side was occupied by the locals who weren’t sick. There’s even a marker that serves as the divider.

Our museum guide told us his father’s story and how he grew up in the nursery for children whose parents had the disease. They were separated to prevent them from getting leprosy as well. The nuns and nurses took care of them. He said that it was a disciplined environment. In the 1980s, scientists found a cure at last after so long and many were healed though some of them sadly passed away.

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

Check out the videos, photographs, medical equipment, etc. displayed at the museum. It’s a great opportunity to understand more about leprosy which was considered a curse in those days when not much information or studies were made about it. But now that we’ve learned from the museum about the disease, it widened our thinking and realised how thankful we are that we’ve found a cure. No person has to live the way they did back in those days when there was none.

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

Afterwards, we hopped on our tricycle and went around the island. You’ll pass by different historical landmarks such as the lepers’ children’s accommodations; doctors and nurses houses or medical clinics; lepers’ and locals’ abodes; schools, etc. It’s not a huge island so it can be toured for a day.

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

Along the way and on the last stop at the La Immaculada Concepcion Church, you’ll see the beach from the road. The church sits on top of the hill beside Hotel Maya where you can gaze at the picturesque view of the simple town and its surrounding body of water. Done in old adobe stones on its exterior and red paint on its interior, it’s a beautiful church that’s worth visiting. After praying to say thanks, walk outside to see the ocean and old canons around the church. The view is mesmerising — the perfect way to end the tour of the former leper island.

Also read: 10 Things You Need to Know About El Nido, Palawan

Image credit: Remedios Lucio

Visiting this historical town of Culion is one of the highlights of my travels in the Philippines as I got to learn about leprosy, the rich history of the island, and the locals’ simple way of living. It’s worth exploring the town as it’s a major depart from the usual island hopping. Oh, and we also learned that it’s cheaper to begin your island hopping here (if you want to also visit beaches) than doing it first in Coron. So why not include Culion Island the next time you plan your next destination in Palawan?

Also read: How I Spent 3 Days in Coron, Palawan for Only PHP 4,950 (All-In)